This dish carries my mother Ilda's name because she always cooked it better than anyone else. A simple recipe, like all truly great recipes — but one that depends entirely on the quality of the octopus. On the Gargano, fresh octopus has never been a problem.
The Memory
In summer, my father would get up early and take his hammer with him. He would go to the fishing harbour, where the fishermen were unloading the night's catch. He chose the octopus directly from the boats — he wanted it as fresh as possible, still alive if he could. Then he would break the ice with the hammer and pack it in the bucket. He came home with that quiet pride of someone who has done things right. My mother Ilda was waiting in the kitchen. From that moment on, the house smelled of the sea all day long.
Ingredients
Serves 4
- 1 fresh octopus, about 1.2 kg
- 300g cherry tomatoes, halved
- 2 cloves of garlic
- A bunch of fresh flat-leaf parsley
- 80g pitted black olives
- 2 tbsp capers, rinsed
- 1 fresh or dried chilli
- Half a glass of dry white wine
- 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- Salt to taste
Method
Clean the octopus
Turn the octopus head inside out and remove the innards. Remove the beak at the centre of the tentacles by pressing with your fingers. Rinse well under cold running water. If the octopus is very fresh it does not need to be beaten — slow cooking will do all the work.
Soften the garlic
In a large heavy-bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and chilli. Gently fry for 2-3 minutes until the garlic is golden — not burnt.
Add the octopus
Place the whole octopus in the pot. Raise the heat and let it colour for a few minutes, turning it. You will see it release its own liquid and curl at the edges — this is perfectly normal and a very good sign. Pour in the white wine and let it evaporate completely.
Build the sauce
Add the cherry tomatoes, olives and capers. Lower the heat to minimum, cover with a lid and cook for at least 50-60 minutes, stirring occasionally. The octopus is ready when a fork slides easily into the thickest part of the tentacles.
Finish and serve
Remove the octopus from the pot and cut it into pieces with scissors or a knife. Return to the sauce. Adjust the salt, add a generous handful of freshly chopped parsley and a drizzle of raw extra virgin olive oil. Serve with crusty bread to mop up the sauce.
My tips
- A very fresh octopus does not need to be beaten — slow cooking naturally tenderises it.
- Do not add water during cooking — the octopus releases plenty of liquid on its own.
- Frozen octopus is actually even more tender — the ice crystals break down the muscle fibres.
- The leftover sauce is extraordinary tossed with spaghetti the next day.
- A drizzle of raw extra virgin olive oil at the end is essential — never skip it.
Leave a comment
Did you try this recipe? Do you have a memory, a variation or a question? Write to me — I read everything and reply personally.